Page 83 - MASALA Magazine Vol.15 Issue 8 | December - January 2025
P. 83
FOOD AND DRINK
KiSara’s new menu focuses on seasonal
avours and local ingredients, with sublime
cuts of fresh sashimi and sushi rolls showcasing
the chefs’ expertise; dishes straight from the
teppanyaki grill; curated lunch and teppanyaki
sets; and of course, a range of Japanese wine
and sake – music to my ears. Chef Ryan,
a native of Guam who’s half-Guamanian
and also a fellow kababayan (Filipino),
thoughtfully walked me through the menu’s
concept: “This is a Japanese restaurant, and
fortunately for me, I had just been working In Conversation with
in Japan,” he says with a laugh. “I’m fortunate Chef Ryan Dadufalza
to have a very strong team; despite not having all delicious. In our selection, we feasted on We spoke further with Chef Ryan
a Japanese national chef with us, we’ve all prawns, grilled pork skewers, and a variety of Dadufalza, the Executive Chef of Conrad
worked with Japanese chefs before, so with the fresh vegetables; lling in the extreme. Bangkok, who gave us insight into his
expertise of my team and some direction from For the mains, we opted for their Japanese culinary philosophy of authenticity and
myself, we were able to execute this menu.” wagyu beef A4 tenderloin (150g) (THB 3,480), consistency.
a premium-grade cut which Chef Ryan tells
We started off with the Salmon avocado roll What inspired you to start cooking, and
(THB 380), a work of art in itself, served me they’re very proud of. “The Japanese beef can you tell us a little about your previous
over a bed of ice to keep it cool. An unusual is dangerously expensive,” he tells me with a professional experiences?
preparation, with perfectly-balanced portions rueful laugh, “but it’s recognised globally as I was inspired to start cooking by a book
of salmon and Haas avocado surrounding a the best of the best. It’s Wagyu beef produced called, The Making of a Chef: Mastering
ring of Japanese rice, each roll looked like a in the Saga prefecture, and only a select few Heat at the Culinary Institute by Michael
stained glass masterpiece; almost too good to cows can attain Saga Beef status.” Melt-in- Ruhlman, in which he did an exposé on
eat. But don’t hesitate to pop in a mouthful your-mouth, juicy, and with a well-rounded the inner workings of an amazing culinary
as they are just as satisfying as they look, avour that isn’t too overpowering, it was a school called The Culinary Institute of
simultaneously creamy and fresh, and truly de nite highlight of the meal, and I would America (CIA). After reading this book, I
showcasing the premium ingredients used. come back just for this. was determined to go there. Eventually,
Next, we tucked into the Tempura moriawase But if you think you’ve indulged enough, I realised that dream, and I was the rst
(THB 580), a classic tempura mix comprised there’s more! The set also includes their KiSara person from Guam to graduate from CIA.
of Tiger prawn, whiting sh, seasonal mixed dessert plate, which includes a selection of Over the years, I’ve worked in Thailand,
vegetables, radish, ginger, and tempura sauce; their signature seasonal desserts, all of which China, Singapore, Macau, Bali, Dubai,
all perfectly crisp on the outside while still are light and not too sweet. However, we were the Philippines, and Japan.
maintaining the avours within. also treated to an extra dessert, the Teppan
dorayaki (THB 350), a tower of small grilled What kind of avour pro les and cuisine
If you’re visiting for lunch, I would suggest do you like best, and why?
opting for the Mini don trio (THB 1,080), a set sweet pancakes with red bean lling, an
with just the right amount of dishes, consisting unusual dessert for me which is nevertheless This answer has changed drastically
of mini grilled eel on rice, packed with avour very Japanese, and unsurprisingly delicious. throughout my career! [Laughs] When I
for such a delicate portion, with a soy-based was younger, I wanted to wow people with
glaze that added a touch of sweetness to the a lot of unique and creative dishes, whereas
savoury mouthful; mini assorted tempura on now, I’m more in tune with authenticity
rice, moreish and delicious; and mini sashimi and replicating heritage dishes and classics.
on rice in refreshing, bite-sized portions, Instead of making ‘occasion’ meals, I want
topped with succulent bursts of sh roe. to focus on food that people would want
to eat more often. Of course, there’s still
If you’re visiting for dinner, however, de nitely room for creativity, but I think paying the
try one of their larger dinner sets. I would utmost respect to the heritage of recipes is
recommend the KiSara dinner teppanyaki more intriguing for me at this stage in my
kaiseki, which starts at THB 2,680 depending career. There’s a deep connection between
on the main course that you choose. Each set food and culture, which is just beautiful.
comes with a plate of premium-grade tuna, MASALA
Hamachi, and hotate sashimi, silken and RECOMMENDS What new elements have you brought or
impeccably sliced; as well as Chawanmushi, do you hope to bring to KiSara’s culinary
a Japanese savoury egg custard, with the The Osaka-style okonomiyaki (THB direction?
quintessential velvety-smooth texture, and 450), a Japanese savoury ‘pancake’ We’re focusing on authenticity and paying
lled with shrimp, chicken, shiitake, and that is a common street food in respect to the Japanese culinary traditions.
ginkgo nut. The set also comes with a seasonal Osaka. This elevated version of the We do leave room for creativity in the
plate of a selection of nine seasonal dishes; snack was topped with Hermes sauce, menu, but mostly, I want to represent and
an embarrassment of riches that comes in mayonnaise, bonito flakes, and replicate the avours of Japan. Moving
a variety of avours and preparations, but generous portions of seafood or crispy forward, I also want to focus on consistency.
pork which Chef Ryan said was their If a guest comes on a Monday, it should be
own innovative twist. as good as when they come on a Friday –
De nitely one to order! that’s what’s most important to me.