Page 83 - MASALA Magazine Vol.15 Issue 8 | December - January 2025
P. 83

FOOD AND DRINK
           KiSara’s new menu focuses on seasonal

            avours and local ingredients, with sublime
           cuts of fresh sashimi and sushi rolls showcasing
            the chefs’ expertise; dishes straight from the
            teppanyaki grill; curated lunch and teppanyaki
            sets; and of course, a range of Japanese wine
           and sake – music to my ears. Chef Ryan,
           a native of Guam who’s half-Guamanian
           and also  a fellow  kababayan  (Filipino),
            thoughtfully walked me through the menu’s
           concept: “This is a Japanese restaurant, and
            fortunately for me, I had just been working                                   In Conversation with
           in Japan,” he says with a laugh. “I’m fortunate                              Chef Ryan Dadufalza
            to have a very strong team; despite not having   all delicious. In our selection, we feasted on   We spoke further with Chef Ryan
           a Japanese national chef with us, we’ve all   prawns, grilled pork skewers, and a variety of   Dadufalza, the Executive Chef of Conrad

           worked with Japanese chefs before, so with the   fresh vegetables;  lling in the extreme.  Bangkok, who gave us insight into his
           expertise of my team and some direction from   For the mains, we opted for their Japanese   culinary philosophy of authenticity and
           myself, we were able to execute this menu.”  wagyu beef A4 tenderloin (150g) (THB 3,480),   consistency.
                                              a premium-grade cut which Chef Ryan tells
           We started off with the Salmon avocado roll                             What inspired you to start cooking, and
           (THB 380), a work of art in itself, served   me they’re very proud of. “The Japanese beef   can you tell us a little about your previous
           over a bed of ice to keep it cool. An unusual   is dangerously expensive,” he tells me with a   professional experiences?
            preparation, with perfectly-balanced portions   rueful laugh, “but it’s recognised globally as   I was inspired to start cooking by a book
           of salmon and Haas avocado surrounding a   the best of the best. It’s Wagyu beef produced   called, The Making of a Chef: Mastering
           ring of Japanese rice, each roll looked like a   in the Saga prefecture, and only a select few   Heat at the Culinary Institute by Michael
            stained glass masterpiece; almost too good to   cows can attain Saga Beef status.” Melt-in-  Ruhlman, in which he did an exposé on
           eat. But don’t hesitate to pop in a mouthful   your-mouth, juicy, and with a well-rounded   the inner workings of an amazing culinary

           as they are just as satisfying as they look,    avour that isn’t too overpowering, it was a   school called The Culinary Institute of

            simultaneously creamy and fresh, and truly   de nite highlight of the meal, and I would   America (CIA). After reading this book, I
            showcasing the premium ingredients used.   come back just for this.    was determined to go there. Eventually,
           Next, we tucked into the Tempura moriawase   But if you think you’ve indulged enough,   I realised that dream, and I was the  rst

           (THB 580), a classic tempura mix comprised   there’s more! The set also includes their KiSara   person from Guam to graduate from CIA.

           of Tiger prawn, whiting  sh, seasonal mixed   dessert plate, which includes a selection of   Over the years, I’ve worked in Thailand,
           vegetables, radish, ginger, and tempura sauce;   their signature seasonal desserts, all of which   China, Singapore, Macau, Bali, Dubai,
           all perfectly crisp on the outside while still   are light and not too sweet. However, we were   the Philippines, and Japan.

           maintaining the  avours within.    also treated to an extra dessert, the Teppan


                                              dorayaki (THB 350), a tower of small grilled   What kind of  avour pro les and cuisine
           If you’re visiting for lunch, I would suggest                           do you like best, and why?

           opting for the Mini don trio (THB 1,080), a set   sweet pancakes with red bean  lling, an
           with just the right amount of dishes, consisting   unusual dessert for me which is nevertheless   This answer has changed drastically

           of mini grilled eel on rice, packed with  avour   very Japanese, and unsurprisingly delicious.   throughout my career! [Laughs] When I
            for such a delicate portion, with a soy-based                          was younger, I wanted to wow people with
            glaze that added a touch of sweetness to the                           a lot of unique and creative dishes, whereas
            savoury mouthful; mini assorted tempura on                             now, I’m more in tune with authenticity
           rice, moreish and delicious; and mini sashimi                           and replicating heritage dishes and classics.
           on rice in refreshing, bite-sized portions,                             Instead of making ‘occasion’ meals, I want

            topped with succulent bursts of  sh roe.                               to focus on food that people would want
                                                                                   to eat more often. Of course, there’s still
           If you’re visiting for dinner, however, de nitely                       room for creativity, but I think paying the

            try one of their larger dinner sets. I would                           utmost respect to the heritage of recipes is
           recommend the KiSara dinner teppanyaki                                  more intriguing for me at this stage in my
           kaiseki, which starts at THB 2,680 depending                            career. There’s a deep connection between
           on the main course that you choose. Each set                            food and culture, which is just beautiful.
           comes with a plate of premium-grade tuna,    MASALA
           Hamachi, and hotate sashimi, silken and     RECOMMENDS                  What new elements have you brought or
           impeccably sliced; as well as Chawanmushi,                              do you hope to bring to KiSara’s culinary
           a Japanese savoury egg custard, with the   The Osaka-style okonomiyaki (THB   direction?
           quintessential velvety-smooth texture, and   450), a Japanese savoury ‘pancake’   We’re focusing on authenticity and paying

            lled with shrimp, chicken, shiitake, and   that is a common street food in   respect to the Japanese culinary traditions.
            ginkgo nut. The set also comes with a seasonal   Osaka. This elevated version of the   We do leave room for creativity in the
            plate of a selection of nine seasonal dishes;   snack was topped with Hermes sauce,   menu, but mostly, I want to represent and

           an embarrassment of riches that comes in   mayonnaise, bonito flakes, and   replicate the  avours of Japan. Moving
           a variety of  avours and preparations, but   generous portions of seafood or crispy   forward, I also want to focus on consistency.

                                                pork which Chef Ryan said was their   If a guest comes on a Monday, it should be
                                                      own innovative twist.        as good as when they come on a Friday –

                                                     De nitely one to order!       that’s what’s most important to me.
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