Page 10 - Masala Lite Issue 164 August 2024

A
10 MUNCHING

CRAFTED

CULINARY

Tapori is a journey through India’s
rich and uncharted territories of
generational recipes.

BY MAHMOOD HOSSAIN

assion projects are the most personal representation of artists and their
respective experiences. They are not to cater to the masses, but a gift to oneself;
to satisfy the ego without evoking arrogance. However, for hospitality veteran Rohit
Sharma, Chef Patron of Tapori, the passion for unexplored Indian cuisine needed to
be expressed, and more importantly, shared with the rest of us city-dwelling food
enthusiasts. Tapori, located in Sukhumvit Soi 47, was inspired by Rohit’s travels across
India, embracing traditional recipes from various regions. Of the 300 dishes that he’d
had the pleasure of trying in his lifetime, 29 of them have been beautifully plated
and made available at Tapori.

While my colleague and I would have loved to join in the journey of 300 dishes, a
select few of the lot would have to do on this particular visit to Tapori. Alongside its
delectable dishes, the restaurant’s vibrant atmosphere and colourful interior provide a
memorable dining experience. Like the items on the menu, the walls, ceiling, lighting,
and tables presented pieces of art from various regions of India.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Tapori delivers on the authentic Indian cuisine experience, driven by its eclectic mix
of modern elements and the rich artistry of Indian design, creating a space for a
sophisticated warm welcome and paying homage to the country’s artistic heritage.
The entrance to the restaurant itself is a sight to behold, as guests walk through a
rustic Rajasthani wooden door and step into a world of Warli patterns, tribal motifs
of Bastar, and Pichwai art. Accentuating the décor is a hand-cut mirror mosaic of a
peacock, layered on top of a 32-foot-long oil canvas. The seating arrangement has
the comfort of a familial home, yet the environment of a bustling restaurant. Bubs,
a secluded bar attached to the restaurant, à la speakeasy, provides imported spirits
from India, enabling the experts behind the bar to concoct some of the most refreshing
cocktails that pack a punch.

FOOD AND DRINKS

As mentioned, each dish represents the region it originates from. We were first
introduced to what the restaurant recognises as a Sindhi brunch masterpiece. The
Dal pakwan (THB 350) has been given some extra flair as dollops of coriander and MASALA RECOMMENDS

date chutneys sit prettily on top of a crispy flatbread, which happens to serve as the For our very tasty finale, we were introduced
roof of a medley of sweet, spicy and tangy lentils mixed with creamy yoghurt. One to a legendary dessert from the royal
crack of the spoon and the mixed ingredients make for a very addictive combination. kitchens of Awadh. We went back to Uttar

From one daal to another, we dipped into a pool of boiled and baked whole wheat Pradesh for the menu’s Benami kheer (THB
bread, paired with zesty lentils and fiery garlic relish in the form of Madhya Pradesh’s 350), the ‘pudding with no name.’ It was a
Dal bafla (THB 480). The carnival of flavours ran consistently, delivered in tantalising pleasantly surprising bite, especially after
bursts within each dish, which brings us to our next dish, the Gobhi musallam (THB discovering it possessed a secret ingredient.
380). This is Tapori’s take on the classic dish from Uttar Pradesh, comprising of a What it was, we can’t say; you’ll have to find out yourself. What we can
creamy roasted cauliflower with a whole roasted beetroot. I would label this as a disclose is that this is no ordinary or traditional kheer. The secret alone lands
‘go-to choice’ for our only-veg readers. It will not disappoint. this dessert on the special ‘Masala Recommends’ spot, and is a must-try
once you visit Tapori. Get ready to be perplexed while you succumb to its
Next, we travel north to Himachal Pradesh for their Siddu (THB 360). This breakfast sweet seduction.
staple from the northern mountains is composed of steamed buns, stuffed with
lentils and served with zesty chilli-sesame and nutty flaxseed dips. If you desire a VIEW VIDEO
meatier bite, you can opt for the equally-delicious chicken version. The latter becomes TAPORI
a perfect segue into a dish from Maharashtra, the Kheema ghotala (THB 480). The
taste of Mumbai and true tapori culture comes in a plate of spicy minced lamb (or 22/2 Soi 47, Khwaeng Khlong Tan
beef), paired with the city’s signature bread, ladi pav. I’m not sure how many times Nuea Watthana, Bangkok, Thailand 10110
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kheema to no end. Equally scrumptious was the Tamil Nadu favourite, Kizhi parotta Tel: 083 945 8851 for Thai
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wrapped in a banana leaf bundle and served with an onion yoghurt for a delicious
and attractive package. Instagram and Facebook: @taporibkk