Page 10 - Masala Lite Issue 176 August 2025

10 TRENDING NOW

A list of Western fashion adopting South

Asian cultural attire has drawn a jagged line

between appreciation and appropriation.

BY MAHMOOD HOSSAIN

emperatures have recently flared in the global cultural climate, as the SCANDALOUS

latest share of controversy falls in the realm of fashion—which tends to SCANDINAVIAN SCARVES
recycle throughout the years. Styles once sported decades prior are given

a flattering upgrade to meet modern aesthetics and fits, and voila! It becomes One of the more recently well-

something entirely new, especially when borrowing from South Asian culture. known fashion (or cultural) faux
In turn, the average consumer deems these so-called new trends to be of their pas that took social media by storm
own making. Granted, some do apologise for the cultural insensitivity (we’re was triggered by a viral fashion post
looking at you, Prada), but this is, of course, nothing new. It does, however, beg highlighting white women draping
the question: Is this innocent ignorance or a privileged position that degrades long scarves around their heads
the true value of what is essentially Desi? and shoulders, which of course,
was reminiscent of dupattas. The
South Asian community blasted
the fashion space by calling it
a cultural erasure and guilty of
double standards. It was absurd
that South Asian women, be it
wearing a dupatta or hijab, have
always been stereotyped, policed,
and discriminated against while the
same or similar styles sported by
Western fashionistas were deemed
to be “chic” or “avant-garde.”
This became the ideal example of the
Eurocentrism in fashion—Western
brands often exoticize or rebrand
cultural garments, while dismissing
or excluding the communities these
so-called inspired pieces originate
from. From a broader perspective, it
isn’t just about the “scarf” looking
like a dupatta. It is, or has been,
about privilege, recognition, and
the unequal treatment of cultural
expression. Kareena Kapoor takes jab at
Prada on social media.
THE LIST IS A LONG ONE

Rewind the tape, and you’ll find long-standing issues with the West adopting fashion
elements from South Asia, from bad to worse.
• Celebrities like Gwen Stefani, Selena Gomez, and eccentric Coachella festival-
goers have worn bindis as an accessory, whereas in South Asia, it holds a deeper
religious and cultural significance.

• The very popular henna trend used in fashion editorials in the West has cultural
ties to wedding festivities and celebrations on our side of the world.
• High-end fashion houses such as Chanel, Marchesa, and Jean Paul Gaultier,
have presented sari-inspired gowns and lehenga-styled skirts on runways with no

mention of South Asian influence.
• The likes of Isabel Marant and Zara have used traditional Gujarati mirrorwork or
Rajasthani embroidery, again, with zero recognition of their origin or local artisans
who have been doing it for generations.
PEEVED BY PRADA • Brands such as Gucci and Chanel have styled turbans on non-South Asian models,
which have religious and cultural ties to Sikhism.
Could you ever imagine a desi mother hitting you with a high-end, overly priced
chappal? A USD 1,300 Kolhapuri chappal to be exact. The most recent uproar had • Pashmina, once signifying a luxury good worthy of royalty, became duplicated,
the Desi community at a fever pitch during the runway reveals of the latest Spring/ stripped of its actual value, and now the general public can’t distinguish an authentic
Summer collections by the biggest names in fashion. For those who don’t already one from a replica.
know, Prada included sandals in their latest collection that look exactly like Kolhapuri • The paisley (also known as boteh) motif, which most know from psychedelic prints,
chappals. And acknowledgement for their inspiration? Nowhere to be found. is rooted in buta pattern of Kashmiri shawls. But with its Scottish name on the
global stage, Western fashion has had its origins hidden from mainstream eyes.
Prada’s now apologetic approach to summer wear shines a different light on cultural

appropriation. To their credit, they’ve taken it a step further by proactively reaching
across the aisles to create dialogue with South Asian fashion and cultural experts. The lack of credit, commercialisation without benefit to the origin culture, and

But I believe comedian Vir Das, whom I had the pleasure of interviewing in a previous double standards regarding cultural expression have plagued the fashion industry for
issue of Masala Lite, said it best on his social media handle: “If you spend 1300 dollars quite some time. While we call for ethical collaborations, acknowledgment, and fair
on Prada ripped off Kolhapuri chappals, the fee should include a visit from an Indian representation, the West continues to fall into lapses of memory haplessly. But this

mother who shows up and beats you with them.” is why South Asian voices all over the world are getting louder—and deservedly so.
MASALA LITE ISSUE 176 - AUGUST 2025