Page 61 - MASALA Magazine Vol.15 Issue 6 | August - September 2024

After exiting the home
kitchens of Bengal, I indulged
in the beetroot crisp, aerated
yoghurt, and tamarind
crunch of the Chaatbanarasi.
Made popular by traders
FIRST IMPRESSIONS across India, this dish hits all the right spots,
throwing me into a torrent of nostalgia as
Keeping in mind that Yantra is here for I refrained from begging for more. What
a short time, the wonderful presentation made matters more challenging was diving
of its mouth-watering menu took place into the Baby samosa chat (THB 420), a
on the more intimate side of the resort’s temptress in disguise with its combination
Italian restaurant BRIO. A room lit with of baby potatoes, green peas, cumin, and MASALA
strategically-placed candles, from the tables turmeric. Hoping to bring me out of this RECOMMENDS
to the stairs; a piano playing in front of a hypnotised state, the chef got to the meat of
mesmerising wall of wine; and a room filled the matter (pun intended) with a seducing The Sutta gosht (THB 620), slow-
with eager food enthusiasts; set the mood plate of Tandoori lamb chop (THB 650) cooked mutton for over four hours, was
for the quintessential evening of fine dining. covered in house spices; it was cooked to beautifully cooked and prepared. The
perfection and slid off the bone like butter. meat was tender and juicy with rich and
FOOD AND DRINKS While the lamb could have easily fulfilled flavourful combinations of spices. By this
my culinary desires, the Mahi tikka, stage, my glass of wine was running low,
Personally, it’s always a good sign when mustard-marinated mahi tossed in a tandoor, enabling me to savour every single bite
the evening’s meal begins with a glass of with shishito pepper and mango chutney, of this amazing dish, capping off what I
red wine from Tuscany. For this occasion, made for a welcoming fish dish. Following would call one of the best mutton dishes
I was treated to a glass of 2020 Le Volte suit was the Chicken malai kebab (THB I have ever come across. I made sure to
dell’Ornellaia, an excellent, everyday wine 480) bathed in yoghurt, cheese, cardamom, shake the chef’s hand for his brilliance
that is a juicy blend of Merlot, Cabernet and mint chutney. The Purani dilli murg before I took the last sip of the Ornellaia
Sauvignon and Sangiovese grapes. It makhani (THB 550), chicken tikka in wine. I couldn’t recommend this dining
delivers a vibrant acidity where the cherries makhani gravy, for the lack of a better journey enough. The Yantra pop-up, only
and blood orange stand out on top of the term, was finger-licking good, especially available until 25 August 2024 for lunch
savoury, earthy and woody elements. But when you have Garlic naan (THB 150) from 12pm to 3pm, and dinner from 5pm
enough about the wine. We tried out options at your disposal. Once you dip a piece of to 10pm, will leave you beyond satisfied,
from the dinner set menu (THB 2,900 per that naan into the gravy, you won’t want if not leave you craving more!
person) and a few dishes which were also to stop. To round things up, we had the
available à la carte (prices in brackets). The Nawabi tarkari biryani with seasonal YANTRA AT ANANTARA RIVERSIDE
first bite of the dinner set menu came from vegetables and cottage cheese, cooked in BANGKOK RESORT
the evening’s amuse-bouche, Khoi bora, ‘purdah,’ with flavours of mint, coriander,
which is popped multigrain rice, ginger, and and saffron. This was a brilliant companion 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Road
fennel balled up and made easy to pop into to one of Yantra’s masterpieces, which Thonburi, Bangkok, Thailand 10110
the mouth. The popped rice fritter (khoi I’ve saved for our ‘Masala Recommends.’ Tel: 02 431 9489
er bora) comes from a traditional Bengali www.anantara.com/en/riverside-
recipe, normally prepared as a snack. bangkok/restaurants/yantra

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