Page 73 - MASALA Magazine Vol.15 Issue 3 | February - March 2024

FOOD AND DRINK

Côte by Mauro Colagreco has a range
of tasting menus for lunch and dinner,
including their 5-course Dimanche Midi set
(THB 4,100 per adult, THB 2,050 per child
between 6-12 years old) which was just
launched this year, which focuses on what
is considered “the most important meal of
the week” in many cultures; the Sunday
lunch shared with family. Definitely a
must-try for those who want a convivial and
indulgent end to their weekend. However,
we opted for their four-course Escapade
Lunch (THB 2,250), replete with an extra
course to give us a peek into what else
we could order. A surprise menu, guests
are served delights curated by the chef orange powder, which added zest to the
himself, as long as they inform the staff whole dish, which was light in the best
of their dietary requirements. Every dish way. For a more substantial option, the out tasting notes in the dishes that you
is brimming with fresh Mediterranean next course, the Trofie pasta comprised wouldn’t have discovered otherwise. I
flavours but with nods to Thailand’s rich of langoustine and black sesame, was especially loved the Kracher & Sohm
culinary history with their use of local heartwarming and simple, but still had Single Vineyard Grüner Veltliner from
ingredients. enough complexity of flavour to keep it Austria, which was a refreshing start when

No French meal can start without a interesting. A dish from the Sunday lunch paired along with the Hamachi tartare.
selection of melt-in-your-mouth amuse menu, it was enough to convince me that
bouches, comprised of Cuttlefish with their Dimanche Midi set is one that I’ll
potato tarte, served with a bay leaf on surely come back for.
top, which is a delicious mouthful of the Our penultimate dish was Guinea fowl
flavours of the sea, with enough acidity with salsify and black truffle, which was an
to cut through the brininess. The Bonito epicurean dream in more ways than one.
tartare, comprised of tuna served in tapioca Stuffed with guinea fowl liver with lashings
chips and marinated in yuzu and ponzo of a classic French sauce comprised of
gel, was a personal favourite, especially as fois gras and chicken stock, the meat had
I can’t resist fresh tuna and the distinctive more substantial flavour than chicken, but
taste of yuzu. For fans of seafood, make sure was still light enough for me to consume
to try the Codfish donut, which shows off the whole dish in record time. Served
the versatility of codfish in different textures with Brussel sprouts, figs, and salsify (an
and presentation, with Oscietra caviar on edible root with a distinctive taste), as well
top for an indulgent finish. Finally, for a as generous flakes of black truffle shaved
hint of sweetness, the Amaranth cracker, tableside, the entire dish is the epitome
with lado and butter, will surely whet your of luxury. MASALA RECOMMENDS
appetite for what’s to come.
Finally, end your meal with their dessert,
The first course, Hamachi ‘tartare’ with an unusual combination of Coconut ice While the menu is a surprise, make sure to
caviar and raw red papaya, encapsulated cream, black sesame sponge, and madras tuck into their Pain de partage with gusto.
the ethos of the restaurant in a single curry, which truly showcased the chef’s Meaning “bread to share,” this delightful
dish: it showcased local ingredients and innovative eye for mixing flavours. Despite loaf is Chef Mauro’s signature bread, and is
sensibilities, with its combination of salty the interesting inclusion of madras curry, indescribable moreish, especially when paired
and sweet elements, while allowing the its piquant flavour paired perfectly with with their ginger menton lemon-flavoured
Mediterranean techniques and flavours to the creaminess of the coconut; a delightful olive oil, as well as an ode to bread from Pablo
shine. Reminiscent of a flower in bloom, it surprise. Of course, we were also served Neruda to get you in the mood.
was almost too beautiful to eat, but the first a plate of petit-fours as a final surprise,
bite was worth it – refreshing and delightful, comprising of a cinnamon stick with
the crystal caviar was the perfect addition liquorice, an early grey macaron, choux CÔTE BY MAURO COLAGRECO
to balance the sweetness of the fruit. cream with pineapple from Phuket, and
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I’ve loved scallops ever since my late chocolate filled with coffee cream – all 300/2 Charoenkrung Road,
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