Page 10 - Masala Lite Issue 157 January 2024
P. 10

10       MUNCHING












         Spanish and Japanese cuisine

        meet in the delectable middle
                    at Japan-ISH.



              BY AIDEN JEWELLE GONZALES


               espite the fact that my days often revolve
               around food (with a constant refrain of, where
               to eat, what to eat, and with whom am I eating),
        I’m far from a food purist. While I’ll give authentic,
        heritage recipes their due, I’ll also happily tuck into
        fusion dishes of all combinations. I firmly believe that
        integrating different culinary techniques, ingredients,
        and flavours will often lead to surprising and delicious
        outcomes; two distinct parts elevating each other into
        an even better whole. So when I first heard of Japan-ISH,
        an apt portmanteau of Japanese and Spanish, the two
        cuisines it serves, I was intrigued.




        FIRST IMPRESSIONS

        On the 18th floor of the Ramada by Wyndham Bangkok
        Sukhumvit 11 hotel, tucked into the infamous Sukhumvit
        Soi 11, Japan-ISH aims to charm and astonish from the
        moment you exit the lifts. A staircase of mirrored walls
        broken up with red panels beckons you upstairs, while                                       Make sure to pair your meal with their array of signature
        as you ascend, a curated selection of masks look down                                       or classic cocktails (or indulge in their freeflow option,
        at you in a riot of emotions. LED lighting bathes the                                       available from 5.30pm to 7.30pm daily for only THB 499,
        staircase in a festive red glow, reflected off the ceilings,                                an option that I solemnly noted down). Their signature
        walls, and the staircase itself.
                                                                                                    cocktails are named after Japanese gods, and certainly
        Upstairs, the crimson theme continues, infusing the                                         taste divine. If you prefer gin-based drinks, I would
        room with the kind of energy that one needs after a                                         recommend the Bishamonten (the Japanese god of luck)
        long day at work. The space gives the impression of a                                       (THB 350), which is sweet with an acidic kick from the lime
        work of art, from its undulating ceiling, to the stylised           FOOD AND DRINK          juice, with vanilla syrup balancing the flavours to create a
        sconces on the walls, to the Samurai armour that greets                                     drink that’s almost too easy to drink. The Amaterasu (sun
        you as you walk in. The outsized bar runs the length of   Having just opened in the last    goddess) (THB 350) is made with vodka and apple juice,
        the room, tempting you to sip on a few tipples before   year, Japan-ISH has refined their   with refreshing Japanese flavours in the form of sake and
        you start; parallel to the end-to-end windows that look   menu, which now offers a range    yuzu. However, if you’re more in the mood for a classic
        out on to the bustling streets below. On the right, as you   of Japanese and Spanish classics,   Negroni, the Fujin (Japanese god of the wind) (THB 350)
        walk in, is an al fresco area with inviting, red-cushioned   as well as delectable fusion dishes, brought to you by   is their version of this viral cocktail, made with acai, a
        seats that allow you to enjoy sundowners with a view,   Chef Jesus Pascual, whose extensive experience includes   homemade liqueur comprised of ingredients from Japan.

        while above, fibre optic lights gently sway in the breeze,   working in Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain. We began   Surprising,  vibrant, and a
        adding an ethereal quality to the scene.      with the Mushroom croquetas (THB 280), made with eryngii   haunt you won’t soon forget,
                                                      and shiitake, classic Japanese ingredients that made the   Japan-ISH is definitely a strong
                                                      croquetas melt in your mouth, paired with a healthy dollop   contender in Sukhumvit Soi 11’s
                                                      of truffle mayo that we couldn’t get enough of. If you’re   array of dynamic and delicious
                                                      looking for a starter that leans more Japanese, their Salmon   options.
                                                      piri (THB 310) is a great shout, made with salmon, avocado,
                                                      spring onions, kaiware, tobiko, and a spicy piri sauce to
                                                      offset the flavours and give the dish an unusual kick.
                                                                                                       MASALA  RECOMMENDS
                                                      We then tucked into the Hamachi escabeche (THB 450) with
                                                      great gusto, which was fresh and perfectly balanced with   The Cod miso (THB 520),
                                                      the acidic elements of the yuzu oil and the yellow chili e   made with black cod and
                                                      citrus sauce, while topping the dish are tiny moreish spheres   white miso, and served on
                                                      of fumi arare, a Japanese-cracker made from glutinous   an eye-catching leaf with
                                                      rice, to give it that extra crunch. I personally love Japanese   roasted garlic aioli on the
                                                      kushiyaki, and if you share my love for skewered meats,   side. A treat for both your
                                                      their Tsukune moruno (THB 210) won’t disappoint. Made   eyes and the palate, the dish was prepared perfectly
                                                      with Iberico pork instead of the traditional use of normal   and is at once delicate and packed with flavour.
                                                      chicken, pork, or beef, and marinated in Andalusian spices,
                                                      it’s the perfect marriage of Japanese and Spanish flavours.
                                                      Don’t forget to dip it in the runny egg on the side; an                     VIEW VIDEO
                                                      indulgence I’ll never get tired of.
                                                                                                    JAPAN-ISH
                                                      The Snow crab kani sarada (THB 230) is not to be missed,   155, 23-24 Sukhumvit Soi 11
                                                      an interactive dish made with snow crab meat in a spicy   Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana,
                                                      mayo dressing beautifully plated in a crab shell, with   Bangkok 10110
                                                      toasted garlic and butter bread on which you can spread
                                                      lashings of crab for a truly decadent mouthful. Finally,   Open daily from 5.30pm to
                                                      end your meal with the Yaki imo churros (THB 230), made   2am
                                                      with sweet potato and cinnamon sugar but with spiced   Tel: 096 049 9973
                                                      chocolate to round out the flavours and ensure you won’t   Facebook and Instagram:
                                                      be able to get enough.                        @japanishrestaurant
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