Page 80 - MASALA Magazine Vol.15 Issue 5 | June - July 2024

Fire: an element that has
forever transformed
humanity’s history,
including how we cook our food.
Culinary history shows that cooking
with fire introduced new nutrients
to our food, reduced disease, and
prompted the extraction of new and
exciting flavours from ingredients,
whether it’s the charred smokiness
from wood-fired grilling; or the
succulent intensity you gain from
a slow simmer.

Recently, I’d noticed that cooking
with open flames is slowly regaining
popularity; an offshoot of the
culinary movement to honour age-
old heritage techniques. Thus, when
I first heard of Kwann, tucked into
NYSA Hotel in Sukhumvit Soi
13 and the latest addition to the
renowned Kingston Hotels Group,
I was intrigued to learn of their
premise. Kwann or ควัน, meaning
smoke in Thai, features dishes that
revolve around fire, charcoal, and
smoking techniques, all of which
breathe life into their innovative
menu of Thai classics.

F IR S T IM P R E S S I O N S

While you can find Kwann in one
of Sukhumvit’s busiest streets, the
hotel and indeed the restaurant itself
is an oasis amidst the city’s frenetic
bustle. With interiors designed by
BLAZING lighting; dark furnishings with
VIEW VIDEO: Leo International Design Group,
the restaurant features atmospheric
natural elements; and eye-catching
art. Despite its intimate feel, it’s
surprisingly spacious, with a variety
of seating in the main space for up
to 40 people, from plush chairs and
marble-topped tables, to high seating
a centre stage. Around the corner is a
Trail
at a table made of a magnificent
slab of wood, which rightfully takes
private dining room that can seat up
to 12, perfect for celebratory events
with friends or family.

An open kitchen takes up an entire
side of the restaurant, from which
you can watch the chefs prepare their
culinary art. Beyond, behind a glass
partition, you can watch open flames
Kwann’s reimagined Thai cuisine revolves around smoke, dance in a brick-lined area, as the
flames, and the fires of creativity. experts show their deft control of
this fascinating element. I’ll admit,
B Y AIDEN JE WELLE GONZ ALE S
I spent a good five minutes staring
in awe at the spectacle.

80 | MASALA MAGAZINE JUN-JUL 2024