Page 79 - MASALA Magazine Vol.15 Issue 5 | June - July 2024
P. 79

FOOD & DRINK

           Once we were seated, I got reacquainted
           with the chilled pineapple rasam from my
           summer drinks roundup – still tart and
           refreshing as ever. We then kicked the meal
           off with their Pani puri (THB 280), which
           came presented in a beautiful and ornate
           red box. Each pani puri was stuffed with
           different flavoured fillings, and rested atop
           shot glasses with vibrantly-coloured waters
           infused with either pineapple, orange,
           mint with coriander, and pomegranate. My
           favourite was the pomegranate filling, which
           was equal parts sweet, sour, and spicy. Next,
           we tasted the vegetarian Paneer cafrael (THB
           360) featuring perfect quenelles of a cherry   We then tucked into the Piri piri chinga   Now having tried both their catering and
           and jalapeño jam placed on top of circular   (THB 890), flame-grilled prawns marinated   restaurant offerings, I can undoubtedly say
           patties of paneer, faultlessly grilled. I was   in piri piri. The prawns were plump and   NILA is the new Indian restaurant Bangkok
           particularly fond of the way the sweet jam   juicy, with a fiery kick from the marinade   has been waiting for. They add unique twists on
           contrasted the spiced notes of the paneer,   and a smoky undertone from the roasted   tried and true classics, effectively incorporate
           which had been glazed and marinated with   bell pepper and tomato chutney. Another   coastal Indian influences into their offerings,
           pudine ki chutney. Our last starter was the   delicious prawn dish was the Daab chingiri   and even dare to create original dishes and
           Kozhi chuttathu (THB 390), with Malabar   (THB 750) presented with delicate tiger   desserts, happily colouring outside the lines
           spices, red chilli, and yoghurt-marinated   prawns served in a fresh tender coconut.   and pushing the boundaries of the cuisine. On
           chicken. The seasoning was rich and packed   The creamy coconut flavour was soothing;   the way home, my grandmother mentioned
           a punch with its warm and earthy flavours,   a perfect counterbalance to the spicy dishes   feeling very light and easy - unlike the usual
           while the chicken was well charred on the   preceding it. The coconut curry leaf pulao   aftereffects of an Indian feast - further speaking
           outside and moist on the inside.   served alongside made for a delicious pairing.
                                                                                 to their consistent standard in serving up
           After savouring the delightful starters, we   For fish lovers, the Fish polechuddo (THB   delicate, delectable delights. Chef Bharath
           dug into the delicious mains, the first of   620) was a highlight, starring a red snapper   S. Bhat has brought his talent to a new
           which was the Kosha mangsho (THB 950),   fillet which came beautifully wrapped in   establishment and has already struck gold.
           a Bengali-style lamb shank dish. The lamb   a banana leaf. The tangy, spicy onion and   After eating here, I can’t wait to visit Goa myself
           was exceptionally tender, enveloped in a rich,   tomato masala, combined with the unique   and taste the stories I was told at NILA.
           spicy gravy that paired beautifully with the   kudam puli seasoning, made for a memorable
           aloo chokha (creamy potato mash), which   bite, especially when paired with the soft
           balanced out the bold spices. Next, we   appam. Our last indulgent main dish was the
           had the Chicken chettinadu (THB 490).   Hyderabadi chicken biryani (THB 550). This
           The braised chicken drumsticks had a   slow-baked dish featured tender chicken and
           satisfying warmth from the coconut and   spiced and fragrant basmati rice, a delightful
           black peppercorns. The spices were intense   contrast to the cool cucumber raita and the
           but not overwhelming, complementing the   burst of freshness from the pomegranate
           poultry perfectly.                 seeds.


           The vegetarian Anjeer kofta (THB 390)   Dessert came – as all good things do – in
           was unlike any kofta dish I had ever tried. It   threes. The Tender coconut rasmalai (THB
           featured grilled figs in a luscious cashew nut   270) had a delicate flavour, with perfect
           gravy. The sweetness of the figs interplayed   spheres of rasmalai topped with coconut   MASALA RECOMMENDS
           wonderfully with the savoury elements of the   shavings and jelly; the perfect amount of not-  The Fruit bhel (THB 310), made with puffed rice,
           dish, and the saffron paratha on the side was   too-sweet. It was, dare I say, the best rasmalai   boondi, mango, guava, grapes, and pineapple; an
           an excellent accompaniment. What really   I have ever tasted. Next, the Govin chocolate   absolute must-try. Tossed with mint chutney and
           impressed me about this dish was how light   rumbo (THB 320) was rich and decadent,   tamarind chutney, the flavours in the dish are
           the gravy was, not making me feel bloated   with deep flavours from the rum-soaked plum   striking and nail all the four quadrants of salt, fat,
           in the slightest. Even after several spoonfuls,   cake and chocolate, flambéed tableside for   acid, and heat. My favourite thing is the textural
           my grandmother and I kept coming back   a dramatic finish.            wonderland it creates in your mouth. Stacked like
           for more, with her later admitting it was her                         a cake, the fruit on top and the crispy namkeen and
           favourite dish. The Madras truffle karicho   The last dessert, the Filter kapi Tiramisu   chickpeas on the bottom make for the perfect bite.
           (THB 850) consisted of juicy lamb chops   (THB 270) was another highlight. The
           with a hint of truffle oil, elevated by a spicy   tiramisu was creamy and continued the   NILA
           tomato sauce. The flat-grill ensured the lamb   restaurant’s theme of light and airy dishes,
                                                                                   th
           was succulent and flavourful, with the truffle   with the robust flavour of  Coorg filter   4  Floor, Amari Bangkok 847 New Petchburi Road,
           adding an additional umami depth.  coffee cutting through it all. And in just a   Ratchatewi, Bangkok 10400 Thailand
                                              few minutes, the cylindrical metallic bowl
                                              it came in was emptied.             Open daily from 5.30pm to midnight

                                                                                  Tel:  02 653 9000
                                                                                  Instagram: @nilabkk
                                                                                  www.amari.com/bangkok/dine/nila
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