Page 81 - MASALA Magazine Vol.15 Issue 5 | June - July 2024

F O O D A ND D R I NK

With an ethos that focus on marrying modern
innovation with the raw power of charcoal
cooking, Kwann uses local ingredients
and traditional recipes, while elevating
the dishes with contemporary innovation.
“Where there’s smoke, there’s flavour,” is
what I’m told at Kwann, and this focus on
distilling flavour through fire and smoke,
while stimulating all your senses, can be seen
throughout their menu. The team behind
the concept is the same one from Nawa Thai
Cuisine and Aunglo by Yangrak, bringing
years of experience and their love for Thai
cuisine to each dish.

Our dinner began with a welcome drink
prepared tableside, consisting of kombucha
tea, topped with pineapple and ginger foam,
and chocolate charcoal powder. Of course,
a smoked element was introduced into the
concoction, lending the dish an aromatic
and smooth finish that was an intriguing everything together into a zesty whole. For with pineapple vinaigrette for intriguing
start to the rest of our meal. those not ordering from the tasting menu, or piquancy, before ending the meal with their

The restaurant has both a tasting menu if you’re looking for a vegetarian option, the beautiful and architectural Coconut and
and à la carte options, and we opted for “ Yum” of local seaweed and cucumber (THB corn butter ice-cream, consisting of coconut
the Chef’s Choice Tasting Menu 5 course 350), made with seaweed paste and a spicy meringue, coconut cake, and popcorn – a
(THB 3,300 net), with a select few à la carte local citrus vinaigrette, was a textural and mix of flavours that we would never have put
dishes that were specially recommended by herbaceous option that is unexpected in its together, but somehow just worked.
the restaurant’s team. We began with the mix of umami and mildly astringent flavours.
restaurant’s famed Crab beignets (THB 280 The soup course consisted of “Tom kati”
for 3 pieces), served in a mini treasure chest smoked coconut soup, and while my bias
that you can open for an interactive element. might show as this is one of my favourite of
Packed with flavour, each one is armed with traditional Thai soups, I can honestly say that
a kick from its stuffing of Southern curry this was one of the better ones I’ve had the
sauce, and served on a betel leaf to offset delight to sample. Poured tableside from a
its heat. Although this starter isn’t on their small kettle, the soup consists of fire-roasted
tasting menu, I would highly recommend shrimp, shallots for crispiness, and shrimp
you order it, as it was one of the unanimous paste for a deep savoury richness that we
favourites of the night. couldn’t get enough of.

The tasting menu begins with a selection Although we were almost approaching replete
of ‘snacks;’ light bites that will whet your with all the intriguing flavours we’d tried so
appetite. Although we didn’t try the Raw far, we had yet to move on to the mains,
petchaburi oyster, the Fired sauteed green the first of which was the Nam prik ga la
beans “kra tong thong” made with sea goong, a relish made with grilled coconut and MASALA RECOMMENDS
grape paste, seaweed batter, and truffle was shrimps and served in a coconut bowl, that
refreshing, with the right hint of tartness; looked almost too good to eat. This one isn’t The Kwann style roasted duck (THB 1,300
while I was in raptures over the Thai wagyu for the faint of heart – it packs a delectable for half portion; THB 2,500 for full portion).
beef tartare, made with beef garum with spice punch, offset by the pops of sweetness from You’re first introduced to it as they present
well incorporated in the form of chilli paste the seasonal fruits and vegetables. The Soy it in a pot, and as the smoke clears, you
powder, and irresistible spheres of smoked marinated yellow tail tuna that followed was a see it resting on a bed of aromatic flowers.
egg yolk, served with a side of moreish fresh surprise, with a zesty orange vinaigrette Afterwards, it’s served in a delectable spread,
charcoal crackers. to reset our palette and pomelo for a touch with an array of condiments and in-house
hoisin sauce, and of course, Chinese
With our appetites fired up, as it were, we of local flavour. Although we didn’t try the pancakes to wrap each delightful bite of
were ready to move on to the appetiser, Grilled leek with oyster sauce, we ended our tender meat and flavourful fixings.
which was their Lightly charred local fish mains with the Smoked short ribs, tender
salad, whose precise preparation one could and melt-in-your-mouth, with lashings of
watch in the open kitchen. Topped with massaman curry sauce and seasonal ajad for KWANN
compressed watermelon, which added a hint an indulgent and heartwarming dish. Ground Floor, NYSA Hotel, 73/7-8, Soi Sukhumvit
of sweetness to the piquant dish; the spicy Satisfied, and with our hearts and stomach 13, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110
tomato vinaigrette with a dash of makrut full, we stopped for a palette cleanser in
lime was the star of the show, bringing the form of their Grilled pineapple sorbet Open on Tuesdays to Sundays, from 6am to 11pm
Tel: 02 079 6988
IFacebook & nstagram: @kwannrestaurant
www.amari.com/bangkok/dine/nila